Nov 24
Rules and Beer: Law is hard convention Convention is soft law
Between corporate and industrial culture and the cult of individual self-expression there's the culture of community, communication, and language. Nothing that's been made the same way for hundreds of years has actually been made the same way for hundreds of years; that applies to beer as much as law. It’s slow change. You put 20 people in a room you’ll get an argument. You put 3 people in a room followed by 3 more as the first ones leave and 3 more following again on and on for 500 years you might get something interesting, whether it’s or bread or beer or wine or cheese or Homer or the Bible.Nov 29
Budweiser is not good beer. Microbrewers, by and large, miss the point. Of course they do, they’re beer geeks.
This is the critique from cultural “depth” which some conflate with mysticism or ‘spirituality.’ It’s simpler than that: subtlety takes time.
Time and Consensus
Marcella Hazan in the NY Times.
When my family and I ate out in the Italy of my youth and early decades of my marriage, we would look for any plain trattoria where we could find the kind of cooking that was closest to what my mother and father were putting on the table at home. The person making the meal may have been the owner or his wife or his mother, or someone working in total anonymity. He or she was never referred to as the chef, but as il cuoco or la cuoca, the cook.There's also the subtlety of interpretation that accrues over time to objects or texts of less intrinsic interest. Religious relics and McGuffins, madeleines or urinals (Proust and Duchamp), engage time and range of reference. The references do the work. And the best artists, like the best chefs -the best minds- all refer back to world of "cooks".
This was the old world of Mediterranean family cooking, a world where satisfying flavors had been arrived at over time and by consensus. That world hasn’t disappeared, but it has receded, making room for a parallel world, one where food is often entertainment, spectacle, news, fashion, science, a world in which surprise — whether it’s on the plate or beyond it — is vital. This is the world of chefs.
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